Ask The Trainer: Jumping

Q: I am trying to get my dog from jumping on people. He gets very excited and loves attention. But the jumping needs to stop. Please help!

A: I think a lot of people are in your situation.  Dogs do like to jump up!  Most of the time dogs jump on us to be close to our faces as it is a form of greeting behavior.  Unfortunately jumping dogs can tear our clothing, knock over children or older people, scratch or bruise and generally be considered a nuisance.

The good news - it’s easy to fix!  There are several things you can do with any behavior your dog exhibits and for jumping we’re going to replace the behavior.  Instead of jumping your dog is going to learn that calm behavior will be rewarded.  Here are eight easy steps to a dog who will greet people politely.

You will need:          One Jumping Dog

                                         A six foot leash

                                         A plain buckle or martingale collar

                                         A bowl of treats
                                         A safe place to tie the end of the leash
                                         Some cooperative family and friends

Step One:                     Put a plain or martingale collar on your dog. 

This collar should not be a slip or pinch collar.  You can use a body harness if it fits your dog securely.  Please don’t use a head halter to do this training.

Step Two:                     Attach the six foot leash to a secure, safe place for your dog.

This can be anywhere but your dog should be able to see the door.  Examples include: attach the leash to a stair rail, door knob or large sofa.

Step Three:                 Place a bowl of treats near the dog but not so close he or she can reach them.
                                              You can use your dog’s regular dog food for treats.

Step Four:                    Lead your dog, gently, over to the leash and attach the collar to the leash.

Step Five:                     Have one of your cooperative family or friends ring the doorbell or knock.

As they come in, have them pick up a treat and approach your dog.  If the dog jumps up or barks, have your cooperative family or friend put the treat back in the bowl, and walk away from the dog.  It is very important the person turn away immediately if the dog exhibits jumping or barking behavior.  We’re trying to make it crystal clear to the dog that jumping or barking makes people leave.  Wait about ten seconds and try again. 

Step Six:                       After a few errors, the dog will most likely try something new to keep the person coming towards them.  Something new like being quiet and keeping all four feet on the ground!  Since the dog is doing exactly what we want the person should continue towards the dog and give a treat.  If, at any time, the dog starts to jump or bark the cooperative person needs to immediately turn away from the dog and walk several steps away.  They should wait a couple of seconds then turn back and try again.  Once your dog is successful have the next family or friend enter and repeat the same pattern.

Step Seven:                 Add more distractions.

                                             Try having two people approach the dog at the same time, or children, or people carrying packages or food.  Your dog will make mistakes but those mistakes will help him or her learn to always keep four feet on the ground no matter what the temptation.

Step Eight:                   Try it on the street.

                                              Instead of tying your dog to an object, hold the end of the leash and let the extra fall on the ground.  Step on the middle of the leash.  This will keep the leash short so your dog can’t jump up very high or get too far away from you.  Have your cooperative family and friends approach and give a treat for polite behavior.  To help your dog when people leave; say your dog’s name and give a treat when people are finished interacting with him or her.  This will help your dog focus on you rather than attempting to follow the person who gave them attention.

Some Things to Remember:

When you choose a spot to tie the leash remember your dog is about to develop a new habit.  Once training is complete your dog will begin to automatically go to that spot when company arrives, no leash necessary, so you want to be sure the spot isn’t blocking a coat closet or other place you will need to access.

It is crucial the people who initially approach the dog follow the steps listed above.  You can throw your dog a party and invite your family and friends who will cooperate.  Put the instructions in the invitation and on your front door and invite people at five minute intervals.  This will give your dog many chances to get it right.  Once family and friends help you train your dog they can party in the living room while waiting for the rest of the guests to arrive!

                                        

How Long Will it Take?

It depends on the age of your dog; the number of opportunities your dog has to practice with cooperative people and how many times your dog has the chance to practice the incorrect behavior (jumping or barking).  With a young dog, who has lots of opportunities to work with cooperative people and few chances to make mistakes, you can expect to see fifty percent improvement in a week.  After two weeks of appropriate interactions the dog should be making very few mistakes.  In a month you will have created a new habit!

Spending a little time teaching your dog to greet people politely will help make your dog welcome everywhere.  A dog who knows how to keep it together when approaching people will be a pleasure to take out in public and will be able to spend more time with you.  And what dog doesn’t want to do that?  So thanks for sharing your question and let us know how you are doing.  Train your dog – enjoy your dog!

Our Friend Lady

Some sad news this week.  Lady quietly crossed the Rainbow Bridge in her sleep.  She was a "rescue" dog from Internet Miniatrue Pinscher Service who worked as a hearing dog for a young girl.  She was retired and lived very happily with her retirement family, dog sister Gia, two children and Mom and Dad.  They will miss her as will all of us.  Thanks Lay-Lay for all your hard work.

Interesting Article on Crating.

Well thought out article on the politics of crates.

The Politics of Pet Dogs and Kennel Crates by Stanley Coren, Ph.D.

It is always interesting to look at both public perception and science.  Sometimes they match, other times not so much.  Certainly language plays a big part in how we view things.

Show Business

Here's Sheldon, the Shetland Sheepdog, backstage.  He did a beautiful job last night. 

He had a busy week.  This was Thursday with friends Dandie, Buddy, Luna and Buzz getting ready for a Clarks Shoe photo shoot.

Dog Bites and Fearful Dogs

We Have Nothing to Fear …

Every year millions of people get bitten by dogs and hundreds of thousands require medical care. [i]  In the United States, where we spend 35.9 billion dollars[ii] each year to care for and pamper our house pets, how is this possible?  The answer may surprise some people.  We have a lot of fearful dogs in this country and fearful dogs bite people.

What is Fear?

Fear is one possible result of the body’s chemical reaction to stress.  Stress is the demand on the body to adapt.  Fear triggers the body’s release of various hormones and chemicals including cortisol and adrenaline.  Adrenaline is a fast acting chemical, which is released into the body quickly and dissipates within thirty to sixty minutes.  Cortisol is a slower acting hormone that can take days to dissipate.  The various chemicals raise the body’s pulse rate and blood pressure and cause physical body changes including dilated pupils, panting, wet pads and so on.  Fear causes an arousal response in people and dogs.

What Causes Fear?

·         Temperament -

Some animals have a faster fear response because of their temperament.  They may be born with a quick trigger for fearful response to sounds or movement.  They may be genetically more sensitive to sound or sudden movement.  It is critical for these dogs to be socialized properly.

·         Fear Periods –

Nature programs dogs to be more cautious during certain developmental periods.  In the wild, these fear periods help keep young dogs alive.  Traumatic events, which occur during these periods, can easily become “hard wired” into the dog’s mind.  A trip to the veterinarian for inoculations may create a lifetime phobia in a temperamentally sensitive dog.  Better to avoid the trip during a fear period or make sure the dog has many trips to the veterinarian that do not cause the dog trauma.  Taking the dog on frequent trips to the veterinarian, while it is young, sitting in the waiting room while feeding it treats and taking the puppy home, without he or she experiencing anything unpleasant, will help desensitize the puppy to going to the veterinarian.  Common fear periods occur at around seven to ten weeks, twenty to twenty-four weeks, around a year and again sometime between fourteen and twenty months.  Careful, gentle exposure is the key for socialization, however limiting exposure to new, scary things during the fear periods is also important.

·         Lack of Proper Socialization -

Dogs who have not experienced proper socialization, while young, are often faster to arouse.  Proper socialization between seven and sixteen weeks helps the brain decide what is “normal”.  Normal things do not generate a fear response.  “Abnormal” things are scary and activate the arousal response.  Young dogs need careful, gentle exposure to different people of various ages - including preschoolers, different races and different physical appearances.  They should have experience with older people and people who use adaptive devices such as walkers and wheelchairs.  Young dogs need gentle exposure to different species of animals, different physical locations, various surfaces to walk on (sand, gravel, concrete, gratings and so on), different audio and visual stimulus (metallic sounds, flags flapping, children playing, music and so on).    All of these experiences help inoculate a dog against the fear of average, everyday experiences and people. 

·         Trauma –

Trauma is the exposure to a situation, which causes an arousal response in the dog, and is generalized by the dog to similar situations.  For example: a dog that is attacked by another dog, or group of dogs, at the dog park or doggie daycare.  The dog may become fearful of other dogs that look like the dog(s), or may become fearful of the park, daycare or all dogs.  A dog that is startled and aroused by a very loud noise may become fearful of gunshots, balloons popping or thunder.

The Face of Fear

What does fear look like?  Different breeds and even different dogs may show fear in different ways but most dogs show one or more of these indicators:

·         Dilated Pupils – the black part of the eye grows larger, sometimes to the point where the iris is almost invisible.  Often the eyes look “shiny”.

·         Averting the eyes – in the initial fear reaction, a frightened dog often lowers his or her head and looks to the side and indirectly at the stressor.  This may turn into a direct stare as the dog moves from the initial fear reaction to fear responses.

·         Salivation – which may include:

o    Open mouth

o    Panting or drooling

o    Wet pads

·         Ears back – the ears may be back so far as to look “pinned” to the head

·         Curved Posture – the body may be curved into a “U” shape with the head down low

·         Tail Tucked – tail between the legs tucked up against the body

·         Raised Hackles – the hair on the back of the neck, shoulders or back stands up.

Fear Triggers

Many different things can trigger a fear response.  Most fear triggers contain one or more of the following:

·         Stressors - are factors that may cause the body to acclimate. Sometimes, because the dog’s temperament, lack of socialization or presence of a fear period a stressor may cause trauma.  Common stressors include loud noises, dog on dog incidents, veterinary visits and things falling from over the dog’s head.

·         Pressure – is any force that acts on the dog to adapt quickly.  Adding pressure to a stressor increases the possibility of a fear response.  A frightened dog that is forced to go closer to a gunshot, for example, is more likely to exhibit a fear response than a dog that is allowed to approach the loud noise at his or her own pace.  A dog that is pushed into a group of dogs is more likely to exhibit a future fear response in groups than a dog that is permitted to approach the group more slowly.

Fear Responses

Understanding fear responses in dogs is essential in order to prevent dog bites.  The sooner a fear response is noted, the faster we can help the dog feel calmer and avoid an incident.  Fear responses include:

·         Freeze – freezing in place is often the first response we notice.  A dog that is frozen in place, not moving feet, head or tail is a very frightened dog and should be dealt with cautiously.  The dog should be given the opportunity to move away from what frightens it.  Approaching a dog that is frozen in position can be very dangerous.

·         Flight – is the desire to put distance between oneself and the fear trigger.  Whenever possible, the dog should be allowed to get away from the stressor.  If that is not possible a visual blocker should be placed between the dog and the stressor.  A visual blocker can be a fence, car or even your body.

·         Fight – for most dogs, fight is the last response.  Dogs will most often choose to get away rather than fight.  Many dog bites occur when the dog feels trapped.  A child hugging a dog, a dog being approached in a corner, a dog on lead and a dog hiding under a bed or sofa are all examples of dogs who are trapped, feel they cannot escape, and may bite.

Fear responses occur when fear indicators are ignored.  The dog is “forced” into a response when his or her indicators (dilated pupils, salivation, body posture, ear and tail carriage and so on) are missed or ignored.  A dog that exhibits fear response has been pushed too far.

Dog Bites

Fearful dogs generally bite the “offending” body part – the body part that is approaching the dog.  Children, because of their short stature and their tendency to hug dogs, often get bitten in the face.  Adults are most likely to be bitten in the hand or arm.  Simply leaving the dog an “exit strategy”, a way to get away from a situation, can avoid many bites.

Human Body Positioning

There are things we can do, as we approach dogs, to make the dogs feel more comfortable and to lower the chance of triggering a fear response.  If we model our own behavior on “polite” dog behavior, we can help dogs feel more comfortable in our presence.   Dogs do not approach one another directly; rather they approach each other with an indirect, curved body posture with their head low and eyes averted.  Humans can mimic that approach by stopping (which allows the dog to determine the distance between them), turning slightly sideways, head turned away from the dog with eyes looking down.  Speaking in a soft, calm voice and allowing the dog to approach us also may help a timid or frightened dog cope without triggering a fear response.

Fear Inoculation

Inoculating dogs against fear, by good breeding and proper socialization, can substantially lower the incidents of dog bites in this country.  Socialization is not something over and done when the dog is a puppy.  Socialization continues throughout the dog’s first two years and should be maintained for life.  Confident, bold, outgoing dogs rarely bite people.  Frightened, under confident dogs often do.

Taking Responsibility

We need to teach our children proper behavior around dogs.  We need to rid ourselves of the attitude that our dogs should put up with anything anyone does to them.  Dogs deserve respect for their need of space and their need not to be cornered or trapped.  Children and adults should learn not to do anything to a dog they wouldn’t do to a stranger’s child.  These things include swooping down and picking the dog up, forcing it to submit to being hugged or petted, snatching things away from it or dragging it out from underneath anything.  If the people cannot be controlled then the dog must be protected.  Putting the dog away for the safety of everyone involved should not be viewed as punishing the dog, rather as protecting him or her. 

Dogs and humans must practice mutual respect for the safety of everyone.   A fearful dog should be given time and distance until he or she feels comfortable and confident enough to approach people or things.  Given proper breeding, gentle socialization and proper handling, most dogs will never be put in the position where he or she feels a bite is necessary.

---

[i] J Gilchrist, MD (July 4, 2003). Nonfatal Dog Bite--Related Injuries Treated in Hospital Emergency Departments --- United States, 2001, Morbidity and Mortality Weekly Report, Center for Disease Control.  Retrieved October 17, 2006, from http://www.cdc.gov/MMWR/preview/mmwrhtml/mm5226a1.htm

[ii] Industry Fact Sheet (June 28, 2006).Fetch! Pet Care, Retrieved October 17, 2006, from http://www.fetchpetcare.com/page.php?id=45

Rawhide: Friend or Foe?

Everyone seems to have an opinion on rawhide.  Some folks swear by it, some won't ever give it to their dog and some leave it to their veterinarian.  Checking with your veterinarian is certainly a good idea and here are some other things to consider ...

Not all rawhide is created equal:

• Some of it is produced in the USA, some overseas.  There haven't been a lot of issues with domestically produced rawhide while some problems have been reported with rawhide which has been imported from other counties.

•  Most rawhide sold as dog treats falls into one of these three categories:
• Chip Rawhide:  This is the stuff that looks like particle board.  It is often dyed and shaped into fun shapes including holiday themes.  Chip rawhide is consumed quickly by many dogs.  It is small chips which are moistened and molded into shapes.  The pieces of chip are quite small and most dogs would find it difficult to choke on.
• Flat or Strip Rawhide:  This is the type which is made from a square or rectangle of hide.  Sometimes it is moistened and rolled or moistened, rolled and knotted on each end to look like a bone.  A powerful chewer can rip off a chunk and may have problems swallowing the chunk.  With some dogs, this can be a choking hazard.
• Compressed Rawhide:  Often shaped like a bone, this rawhide is actually many layers of thin rawhide moistened and pressed together.  It is manufactured in a similar way to plywood.  And like plywood it is dense and quite strong.  That isn't to say a really strong chewer couldn't rip off a hunk, but most dogs do not chew off pieces.  An advantage to compressed rawhide is it is longer lasting for most dogs. 

When considering whether or not to use rawhide with your dog:

• Ask your veterinarian for his or her opinion on using rawhide with your dog.
  

• Consider how hard a chewer your dog can be.

• Remember to take the rawhide away when it becomes small enough to be a choking hazard, regardless of what type of rawhide you choose.  

• Some dogs don't share well, so take away the stress and give dogs privacy from other dogs when they chew.

• Be sure to monitor your dog when she is chewing.

Most dogs seem to really enjoy chewing rawhide.  It helps massage the gums and prevent tarter build up.  So speak with your veterinarian, monitor your dog, and make a decision which works for you.  My dogs love it!

Training Muse: Intelligence and Training

One of the common questions people ask is about canine intelligence.  Sometimes they've read a book, or watched a television show, or seen something on the internet comparing various breeds and ranking intelligence.  Something along the lines of Border Collies are smart and Afghan Hounds are dumb.  It seems to me, most of the time, the line between intelligence and "trainability" gets blurred. 

Intelligence, according to Websters, is:

"the ability to learn or understand or to deal with new or trying situations"

A dog who is quick to pick up a new behavior is considered intelligent.  Of course, since we can't ask the dog to explain what she understands about the new behavior, the ability to respond to a command with the desired behavior is how we determine the dog knows the behavior.  So we now have added a criteria to canine intelligence: the ability to repetitively demonstrate the behavior.  The ability to repetitively demonstrate a behavior is what, customarily, is called trainability.

Trainability is what most people desire in a dog.  Show me the same behavior each time I ask you to do so.  It certainly makes dog training easier and makes dogs with a high "trainability quotient" good companions.  But is it really intelligence?

A sled dog who refuses to "mush" across a snow covered field is not demonstrating his understanding of the mush command.  And each time he attempts to turn left or right rather than go forward, he is disobeying a command.  Either he does not completely understand the command "mush" or he is choosing to disobey.  Either one lowers his trainability quotient.  Does it make a difference if you factor in the field he's being asked to mush across isn't a field at all but rather a not very well frozen lake?  So his trainability quotient may be lowered but his intelligence is just fine.

Is a competition obedience dog who has been carefully and systematically trained to jump the broad jump in a straight line while the handler stands next to the jump less intelligent when she cuts across the jump to get to the handler more quickly?  Or is that the intelligent decision while the dog who never cuts across is more trainable?

Trainability relates to how easily the dog can be taught to respond to a command AND the dog's willingness to do it repeatedly.  The second part is what separates it from intelligence.  Of course it is difficult to tell if a dog understands a command without repetition and, if during the repetition, the dog shows inconsistency it is natural to assume the dog does not completely understand the behavior.  Certainly sometimes that is true, especially if we have not put the time in to break the behavior into small steps, systematically train the behavior and carefully proof the behavior in different environments.  But sometimes, a really smart dog will demonstrate a behavior to us once or twice.  If we then ask them to repeat the behavior we may not get anything, or we might get a different behavior.  It doesn't always mean the dog doesn't understand, sometimes they just don't wanna'.  And that doesn't make them dumb.

So enjoy the Beagles, Borzois, Basenjis, Great Danes, Irish Wolfhounds, Clumber Spaniels, Afghan Hounds, SharPeis, Shih-Tzus and all the rest.  They are highly intelligent canines.  They all can learn and demonstrate complex behaviors.  Learning to motivate them is the key, and quitting while you are ahead doesn't hurt either.