Ask the Trainer: Coming When Called

Q: We have a 3 year old black lab/pit

bull mix who is very loving. She obeys
most all basic commands like stay, sit,
speak, roll over, etc. The one we have
the most trouble with is "come".  We
want her to come at our call under all 
circumstances.  Suggestions?

 

A:   Ah, coming when called.  That’s a common issue for many owners.  It isn’t any fun to have a dog who won’t come when called.  And it’s dangerous.  Unfortunately, even the most diligent owner can have a dog get off lead in an unsafe environment.  Doors get left unlatched, collars break, clips on leashes jam, things can happen. 

Some Things to Consider

There are several things you can do with any behavior your dog exhibits and to teach a great recall (coming when called) we’re going to teach the behavior, reward the behavior and give a reminder of the new behavior. 

Why Doesn’t My Dog Come?
Believe it or not, sometimes by accident, we teach them the exact opposite behavior – NOT to come when we call them:

·         Dogs don’t come because they don’t have to.  

Sometimes, if a dog is occupied doing something, they don’t come when we call them.  This teaches them that “come” is optional.  They can take a minute to smell something delicious, roll in the grass, or scratch an itch and then, if they want to, they can come to us.

·         Dogs don’t come because they get chastised for coming to us.

After leading you on a merry romp around the yard and neighborhood, your dog finally allows you to grab her collar.  She’s had a wonderful time running around with you – but you aren’t so happy and you tell her “bad girl, didn’t you hear me call you?”.

·         Dogs don’t come because something they don’t want to happen, happens next.

We all are guilty of doing this sometimes.  We call our dog and put them in their crate. Or call them and do their nails, or give them a bath or a pill.  Or we call them indoors from outside and then we leave for the day.  None of these are fun for the dog, so he learns to avoid us when we use that “come” voice.

So Let’s Teach the Behavior!

You will need:            One dog with selective hearing (hears “cookie” just fine but not “come”)

                                         A six foot leash

                                         A long line or clothesline – 50’ to 100’

                                         A martingale collar

                               Lots of high value treats (cheese, chicken, liver and so on)

                                         *Optional:  A bait bag or fanny pack to hold the treats

Step One:                     Put Your Martingale Collar and Leash on the Dog

Step Two:                     Give everyone some high value treats:

                                         Everyone can have different treats – in fact, it may help.

Step Three:                 In a safe location indoors, drop the lead and have someone call the dog.

1.   Call, “Fido, COME” in a pleasant voice – remember to use the dog’s name BEFORE the command so he knows you are talking to him.

2.   Start making noise “pup,pup,pup,pup” in a pleasant tone.  Don’t use the dog’s name again and don’t say “Come” again but continue to make noise until the dog reaches you.

3.   Back up as quickly as your are comfortable doing.  Backing up and making noise make you much more interesting to “chase”.

4.   When the dog “catches” you, feed the dog a yummy treat with both hands.  Make sure both hands are touching your body.

5.   Step on the lead with your foot, give another treat and a chin scratch or belly rub.

Step Four:                    Have the next person call your dog and repeat the same steps.

Step Five:                     Have each person call the dog three times, then stop and repeat at the next session.

Step Six:                       Have the people spread out – one person in the living room, one in the kitchen, one upstairs.

Step Seven:                 Using your long line, practice outdoors. 

Step Eight:                   Practice putting on your six foot lead after your dog comes to you, gets a treat, and a scratch or belly rub. 

So that’s teaching a dog that it is fun, exciting and rewarding to come when called. 

Some Things to Remember:

Keep making noise and backing up until your dog catches you.  Don’t give up!  You have to make yourself the most interesting thing in the room/yard.

Make sure you feed the dog with both hands.

Be sure to have your hands touching your body – otherwise you may teach your dog to come in and stop, just out of your reach.

When using a long line, please wear close toed shoes, long pants and gloves to avoid “rope burns”.  Always carry something to cut the line quickly in case of emergency.

If you need your dog so you can cut their nails, give them a pill, bathe them, put them in their crate – go get them!  Never have something the dog perceives as negative happen after you call them. 

 NEVER HAVE YOUR DOG OFF LEAD IN AN UNSECURED LOCATION.

How Long Will it Take?

Coming when called takes time and practice – especially in stimulating environments.  Different dogs and different breeds will vary in how long it may take to get consistency.  Sighthounds, dogs who hunt with their eyes like Afghans, Whippets, and Greyhounds, will be distracted by visual stimulation.  Scent Hounds, dogs who hunt with their nose like Beagles, and Bloodhounds will have a hard time concentrating with lots of smells.  Terriers, dogs who are bred to chase small furry things, like Jack Russell Terriers and Wheaton Terriers will find small moving objects a great distraction.  Bird Dogs like Setters, Spaniels and Retrievers may find ducks or geese a huge distraction.   Most dogs need many repetitions of the recall being rewarding and very few instances of the recall leading to something they don’t like before the recall is consistent.

If you have a fenced yard and you are in the habit of calling your dog in from the yard, remember to make it a positive experience for your dog most of the time.  If you are going to leave to go to work, for example, call your dog in and give them a treat and send them right back outside.  Repeat this three or four times over the next fifteen to thirty minutes.  When you do call them in and close the door behind them, give them a stuffed Kong™ or chewie and WAIT ten to fifteen minutes before you leave.  You don’t want your dog to associate coming when called with you leaving – or they aren’t going to come very many more times!

Dogs should never be off leash in an unsecured location.  The chance of injury to the dog is too great.  Plus, in most places, it is against the law to have a dog off leash.  Keep your dog on leash at all times.  Your dog can have just as much fun on a long line and you will have the peace of mind that your dog is safe.

In an Emergency:

Leashes do break, so do collars and doors get left open or unlatched so accidents can happen.  If your dog is in danger from being off lead and you have used this training technique:

1. STOP – don’t chase your dog.
2. CALL – use your dog’s name and the word “Come”.
3. RUN – in the opposite direction from your dog.  Yes, you read it right, run away from your dog.  You can’t outrun them so running towards them won’t work.  You can’t catch them.
4. MAKE NOISE –  “PUP,PUP,PUP” or any other noise to get your dog’s attention
5. FALL -  when your dog gets close to catching you,  fall down and lie on your back with your eyes almost closed.
6. GRAB – when your dog is right over you (she will come over to see what happened to you) grab her.

You can only use this method two or three times in your dog’s life – so save it for a real emergency when your dog is in danger and not when it is only inconvenient for you to have a loose dog.  Your dog will figure it out and it will cease to be effective if you use it too many times.

So keep your dog safe.  Practice the recall and remember to only have your dog off leash in a secured location.  Thanks for asking your question and let us know how you do.  Train your dog, enjoy your dog.

(c) Susan D. Greenbaum August 2012

Ask the Trainer:  Dogs Who Pull on Leash

Q: Gracie pulls constantly on her leash, we’ve tried choke collars, harness, and the regular collar, she pulls with all of them.  I’ve tried to stop moving and make her sit when she’s pulling until she’s calmed down, still doesn’t work.  Gracie is an 80 lbs (very strong) American Bulldog, any suggestions?

Q: Whenever I walk my German Short Haired Pointer Homer, he pulls! I cannot ever walk him without the pulling. He has control, and I have little or none.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

A:   This might be the most common reason people seek training advice, a dog who pulls them down the street!  You’re not alone.  Pulling makes walking your dog unpleasant at best and, on an icy sidewalk, dangerous. 

Let’s Talk about Equipment:

There are many types of collars and harnesses available but they all share one thing in common.  They won’t teach your dog not to pull!  While almost all of these have uses, depending on the dog and handler, none of them will work without you training your dog.  Think of equipment as power steering for your car.  Power steering makes driving your two ton vehicle much easier but it doesn’t steer your car.  That part is still up to you.  While every dog and handler is different these are some of the more common pieces of training equipment and the pluses and minuses of using them.  Please check with your veterinarian before using any collar or harness.

·         Buckle or Clip Collar

o    This is the standard collar many dogs wear. 

+           Comes in lots of colors and patterns 

  -            In an emergency it can easily slip over your dog’s head resulting in a loose dog

·         Martingale Collar

o    This collar looks like two thirds of a snow man, it has two loops-one goes over the dog’s head and the other attaches to the leash.  The second loop can be made of fabric or chain

+           Properly fitted, the collar can neither slip off or tighten down to choke the dog

  -            Some dogs can chew the second loop so leaving the collar attached to the leash is the best practice.  When the leash goes on, so does the collar.

·         Slip or Choke Collar

o    This collar, made out of fabric, leather or chain, has two rings. 

 +           The dog, in an emergency, cannot slip out of the collar

  -            Many people put this collar on “upside down” which does not allow the collar to open fully.  It isn’t an appropriate collar for dogs who lean on the collar as it can, over time, cause tracheal damage.  It may break the coat of a dog with long hair.

·         Pinch or Prong Collar

o    This collar, made out of steel, has removable links which can be subtracted or added to get a proper fit.

 +           Properly fitted, this collar can neither slip off or tighten down to choke the dog.  It should be worn with a “safety” collar, a martingale for example, so if the links separate there will still be a collar on the dog.

 -            Collars with large links are difficult to fit properly.  Public perception of these collars can be negative.  These collars should be fitted by someone experienced with the collar.

·         Standard Harness

o    This harness may be fabric, leather, webbing or mesh.  The leash clips to the back of the dog’s shoulders.

 +           Comes in many colors and patterns

 -            Harnesses are easy for dogs to get out of if the dog gets frightened.  Back clip harnesses often encourage dogs to “lean in” causing pulling.

·         Front Clip Harness

o    This harness is made out of fabric and has a place under the dog’s chin to clip the leash

  +           Comes in many colors and patterns.  Can be used effectively by children.  This harness, like all harnesses needs to be used with a “safety collar” like a martingale.

  -            Some harnesses have a loop on the front and some dogs chew on that loop.  If the dog chews another brand without the loop should be used.

·         Head Halter

o    This goes around the dog’s muzzle

  +           Comes in many colors and patterns

  -            Many dogs dislike the feel of something on their face and will need to be slowly acclimated to wearing a head halter.   If the dog continues to pull against the head halter, some dogs will rub fur off of the muzzle

Which should I choose?

As each dog and each handler is an individual, no one thing will work for everyone.  If your dog is “reactive”, that is she barks and lunges at other dogs or people, then you may want to avoid using a head halter or prong collar.  Reactive dogs who wear head halters are prevented from seeing what they wish to see as the action of the head halter pulls the dog’s head towards the handler.  Not being able to see what arouses the dog may cause much more arousal.  Think if a scary looking person walked through the door and someone covered your eyes – most of us would not be very happy with that at all, we would want to be able to see the person.   Your dog feels the same way.  Reactive dogs who wear prong collars, especially poorly fitted collars, may lunge towards the person or dog and receive a correction from the collar.  Since prong collars mimic the correction an adult dog gives a puppy, a dog who lunges towards another dog or person may perceive that correction as coming from the person or dog it is lunging towards.  “That dog bit me!” is what she may be thinking.  This can make matters worse.

Most dogs and handlers do well with a martingale style collar.  If you cannot stand still with your dog on a martingale collar, you may need the “power steering” of a front clip harness or prong collar to prevent your dog from pulling you over.  Regardless, the technique for loose lead walking is the same.

Some Things to Consider

There are several things you can do with any behavior your dog exhibits and for pulling we’re going to limit the behavior, replace the behavior and reward the new behavior.  This process takes time.  Remember how long your dog has been pulling!  It’s a bad habit and habits take time to change.  Try this:  Tomorrow morning pick up your toothbrush with the opposite hand.  Keep a log and see how long it takes you to remember to do this rather than switch hands once you’ve made the mistake!  Habits take time and practice to change.  To go from a pulling dog to one who doesn’t pull will take time, practice and patience. 

Why do Dogs Pull?
Many dogs pull.  And most do for the following reasons:

·         Dogs pull because it gets them where they want to go … faster.  

So long as the dog gets what he wants, to go in the direction he pulls, he will continue to pull.  Why wouldn’t he?  He’s getting exactly what he wants.

·         Dogs pull because we pull back.

When your dog pulls, you lean back on your heels and tighten your grip which upsets your dog’s center of balance.  So he pushes forward.  Which upsets your center of balance so you lean back.  Which upsets his center of balance.  And so on.  Pretty soon, your dog’s chest is inches off the ground and you look like you are water skiing.  The leash is tight and everyone is pulling.

·         Dogs pull because they can’t figure out how long the leash is.

Pretend you tied your dog to a tree (I know you wouldn’t really do that) on a ten foot piece of rope.  Your dog might run to the end of the rope a few times and then she’d figure it out and stop before she hit the end.  Now pretend you put her out the next day on a twenty foot piece of rope – she’d do the same thing.  But if you change the length of the rope every day she would have no choice but to hit the end in order to figure out how long the rope is today.   So now, picture your dog walking on a four foot lead.  How long is the leash?  Four feet, right?  Well, what if your arm is extended towards your dog?  What if your arm is behind you?  What if your arm is over your head?  See the problem?  Sometimes your leash is four feet long, sometimes six feet and sometimes three feet.

So Let’s Walk a Dog!

You will need: 

• One pulling dog 
• A four foot leash 
• A martingale collarLots of high value treats (cheese, chicken, liver and so on)
•  *Optional:  A bait bag or fanny pack to hold the treats

Step One:                      

 Put Your Martingale Collar and Leash on the Dog 
                               Don’t forget to put your treats in a pocket or bait bag on your left side

Step Two:                    

 Put the Loop of the Leash over your Right Hand and put your Right Thumb in your Pocket

                              This will keep you from moving your hand and changing the length of your leash

If your dog is very tall, you may need to make the leash shorter by folding it over your right thumb and grabbing both sides with your hand.  Don’t forget to put your hand in your pocket!

The leash will be draped across your legs.  When your dog is standing next to your left leg the clip on the leash should be facing the ground with no tension at all.

Step Three: Remember the Three Rules of Walking:

1.       Don’t Go in the Direction the Dog Pulls

2.       Don’t Pull Back

3.       Don’t Change the Length of the Leash

Step Four: 

Say “Let’s Go” and Start Walking   

• Walk forward briskly (it’s easier for your dog) 
• As soon as you feel any tension on the lead: 
• STOP 
• Turn to your right, go completely around (180%), and start walking back the way you came. 
• When your leash goes loose, tell your dog “Yes!” in an enthusiastic voice and feed your dog a  yummy treat with your left hand touching your pants seam.

Really, that’s it.  If your dog puts tension on the lead pulling to the left – STOP, Turn to your right one quarter turn (90%) and walk.  If your dog puts tension on the lead by lagging behind, move forward faster.  Whichever way your dog puts tension on the lead, STOP and go the opposite way. 

Some Things to Remember: 

• Don’t touch the leash with your left hand – it’s for feeding your dog only.  Otherwise, when you use your left hand on the leash, you will make the leash shorter.
•  Say “YES” when your dog keeps all tension off the lead, feed a great treat with your left hand touching your left leg. 
• Keep the food in your pocket or bait bag until after you say “YES”.  Your dog will wait for you to fish out the treat! 
• Keep moving – don’t stop to give the treat or your dog will equate stopping with the treat rather than equating the treat with a loose leash. 
•  If you have a very small dog, you may want to use cream cheese or peanut butter on a spoon or chop stick so you don’t have to bend over.  Remember to keep the spoon/stick up in the air, by your shoulder, until after you say “YES”. 
• If you have more than one dog, please work each dog separately before you try and work them together.
• If your dog shows aggression towards other dogs or people please consult with a qualified trainer.

Step Four:                                       

Step Five: Repeat, Repeat, Repeat.

Try to remember your dog has been pulling for awhile and it will take time to establish a new habit.  Your dog cannot learn this if sometimes you let your dog pull.  The rule needs to be “no tension on the leash – ever”.  That means no tension when your dog is going out to urinate or defecate, when she sees a squirrel, when she sees another dog or someone she knows.  No pulling even when on a long line.

Step Six:                                           

How Long Will it Take?

Changing a habit takes time and, depending on how long your dog has been “practicing” the pulling behavior, it may take quite a few repetitions.  You may find your dog does very well on your own street in just a few days but it may take longer in new places.    Or maybe your dog does great almost all the time but sometimes seems to lose his mind when he sees another dog – all of this is normal.  If you are 100% consistent, and practice every day, you will have much more control in one to three weeks; which isn’t too bad.  Remember, your dog has been pulling a lot longer than that!

A dog who is a pleasure to walk is worth the effort.  Your dog will go more places with you, and you will walk more with your dog – it’s good for both of you!  Thanks for asking your question and let us know how you do.  Train your dog, enjoy your dog.

(c) Copyright 2012 Susan D. Greenbaum

Congratulations!

Some congratulations are in order ...

Today, Nadia and Diane won their Rally Excellent class and earned their 2nd leg and Jan and Ursa got their first Rally Novice leg.

Great work everybody!

Hot Weather Ideas

It's hard to have a young, rambunctious dog when the weather is hot.  It's just as hard to have an older dog, puppy, or a middle aged one!  Sure, you can try and do some short exercise sessions early in the day and again in the evening but, for some dogs, it isn't nearly enough.  Here's a few ideas to keep your dog busy when it's hot out.

OUTSIDE GAMES:

• FISHING
  
• Get a couple of extra ice cube trays
• Put one piece of dog food in each section of one tray - freeze
• Put a piece of carrot in each section of another tray - freeze
• Put a small piece of apple in each section of a third tray - freeze
• Take all three trays, remove the cubes and fill a plastic bag with the mix
• Fill a child's wading pool with a couple inches of water
• Put a handful of ice cubes in and let your dog go fishing!

• LICK 'EM

• Find a small bucket and fill 1/3 of the way with water
• Freeze
• Put a couple of green beans on top of the ice and fill 1/3 of the way with water
• Freeze
• Put a couple of pieces of carrot and fill the rest of the way with water
• Freeze
• Take the block of ice out by plunging the bucket into warm water for a few seconds
• Put it outside on a tray or crate pan and let your dog lick the ice block to get the treats!
  
• COOL BALL CHASE
  
• Fill a wading pool with a couple of inches of water
• Put an Indestructible(tm) ball, large enough your dog cannot fit it in her mouth, into the pool
• Let your dog chase it around and try and remove it from the pool!

INSIDE GAMES:

• FIND IT

• Put a piece of dog food under a paper cup and encourage your dog to get the treat out from under the cup
• Once he's good at it, add a second cup with no treat under it - two cups, one treat.
• With practice your dog will become very accurate at getting the treat out from under the cup without having to touch both cups
• Once he's accurate, add more cups!  Ten or twenty cups add to the fun! 

•  KONG(tm) AND SEEK

• Soak some of your dog's regular food in warm water
• Stuff a Kong(tm) and freeze it overnight
• Hide the Kong(tm) somewhere in your house and let your dog find it and enjoy!
  Remember to deduct the amount of food you used in the Kong(tm) from your dog's daily food ration.

Please remember, when it is hot outside, to monitor your dog and keep outside sessions short - even with the wading pools.  Try and do all outdoor activities in the shade.  Dogs only sweat through the pads of their feet and by panting so they can overheat easily and quickly.  Remember, dogs can suffer from heat exhaustion and heat stroke too.


Your dog should have unlimited access to clean, cool water and should spend the hottest times of day inside, preferably with air conditioning. And, of course, never leave your dog in the car unattended in hot weather - even with the air conditioning on.

Enjoy your summer and enjoy your dog!

Ask The Trainer: Separation Anxiety

Q: My husband and I rescued a pit bull three years ago.  A month 
after we got her home, she began showing symptoms of separation
anxiety.  We spent the better part of a year working with her to
address the behavior.  This summer, we are moving to a new house

and are wondering if there are steps we need to take to help our dog
adjust to her new home without triggering her old behaviors.

A:  It’s hard to answer your question directly without knowing what type of work you did to address the behavior before but let’s look at anxiety behavior in general.

Anxiety behaviors can be one of the tougher training challenges.  Separation Anxiety is a term which may be used to describe a variety of behaviors.  Many dogs have some level of anxiety when left alone.   Some dogs seem genetically predisposed for anxiety behaviors but we should recognize that Separation Anxiety is predominately a created behavior which is substantially more prevalent in the United States than other countries.

Anxiety behaviors can vary tremendously.  Some dogs, when left alone, will pant or drool.  Others howl or bark excessively.  Still others attempt to escape by ripping through doors, breaking windows or tunneling through floors or walls.  Some dogs destroy crates and others push air conditioners out of walls and windows.  Some urinate, defecate, vomit or even injure themselves accidentally or purposefully.

 If the anxiety is mild then behavioral training will often resolve the issue given time and systematic training.

True Separation Anxiety, when a dog is injuring herself tunneling through walls, breaking teeth trying to escape, or self mutilating by chewing her tail or feet, often needs a two level approach.  In order for the behavioral training to be effective, pharmacology may be needed to take the edge off the anxiety in order to allow the dog enough relief from the anxiety for training to help.  Consulting a Veterinary Behaviorist or a Veterinarian experienced with anxiety medications can be extremely helpful.  Pharmacology should always be viewed as a temporary step to help lower the dog’s anxiety so the training has the opportunity to work.  Pharmacology should not be used alone but in conjunction with behavioral therapy.  In most cases, drugs are discontinued after three or four months once training has taken effect.

There are steps everyone can take to have a dog who is comfortable and secure when left alone. 

Use your dog’s ability to back chain to your advantage. 

Back chaining is the dog’s ability to anticipate an event by recognizing the events which precede it.  For instance your dog may know this sequence:

·    I hear the key in the door – my people are home! 

·    I hear the car in the garage, I hear the key in the door – my people are home!

·     I hear the garage door open, the car in the garage, the key in the door – my people are home! 

·    I hear the car driving down the street, the garage door open, the car in the garage, the key in the door – my people are home!

·     I hear the children getting off the bus, the car driving down the street, the garage door open, the car in the garage, the key in the door – my people are home! 

·    I hear the postal worker deliver the mail, the children getting off the bus, the car driving down the street, the garage door open, the car in the garage, I hear the key in the door – my people are home!

Unfortunately, the postal worker delivers the mail at one in the afternoon and you don’t get home from work until after five!  Your dog is getting excited hours before you come home and that long period of anticipation can trigger anxiety.

 

So let’s take the anxiety temperature down a few degrees.

Step One:

·         Ten to fifteen minutes before you leave, put your dog where he is going to be while you are gone (in his crate, the kitchen, living room or wherever he usually stays),

·         If your dog is safe having something to chew, leave her a stuffed Kong™ or marrow bone.

·         Psychologically separate from the dog by not touching or talking to the dog.  Try not to even look at the dog.

·         Continue your “getting ready to leave” routine – get your briefcase, find your car keys, pack your lunch or do what you usually do prior to leaving.

·         As you leave, calmly and casually say, “Have a good day” or some other phrase as you walk out the door.

Step Two:                    

·         Reverse the process on your return home.

·         Walk in the door, casually say “How was your day?” or some other phrase, put your keys away, check the answering machine, sort the mail or whatever else is your routine.

·         After ten minutes, presuming your dog is relaxed, calmly put on your dog’s leash and take him out for a walk.

·         If you approach your dog and he gets very excited, walk away and try again in a few minutes.  You should only interact with your dog when he gives a calm, relaxed presentation.  Otherwise you will inadvertently reward him for hyped up behavior.

Calm comings and goings help take down the emotional temperature of your dog’s day.  Having a routine which occurs after you come home, that is predictable, allows your dog to back chain starting when you come in the door rather than starting a back chain hours prior to your return. 

Some other things which can help prevent anxiety behaviors include using a white noise machine to mask outside noise.  A radio can be used but it is important to find a classical music station with little or no dialog.  Voices may cause agitation in some dogs.  Other useful tools include using Dog Appeasing Pheromones (D.A.P.) which come in a plug in and spray.  Use the plug in as close as possible to where the dog is kept – certainly the same room.  The spray can also be used daily on the dog’s bedding.  DO NOT USE ANY BEDDING if you think your dog may chew or shred the bedding.  Ingesting soft goods like bedding can cause intestinal blockage.   Some dogs respond well to herbal supplements like “Rescue Remedy™” but please check with your veterinarian before adding any supplements.  A stuffed Kong™ toy which your dog can chew may help your dog cope with mild anxiety.  If your dog is a hard chewer, be certain your dog cannot bite off hunks of the Kong™ prior to leaving your dog alone with any chew toy.

To get back to the original question, some things you can do to help your dog adjust to the move include:

·         Bring your dog to the new house a few times before the move.  Feed and play with her there.

·         Don’t wash her bedding prior to the move so it can smell the same in the new house.

·         Sleep in an old T-shirt the night before the move and leave that with your dog in her new house – presuming your dog isn’t tearing and shredding her bedding

·         On moving day, leave your dog with a friend and get the move done while your dog is elsewhere.  Watching things being removed from her old home can be stressful.

·         Try not to leave her alone for the first 24-48 hours.  When you do leave her the first time, leave for a brief period of time and return.  Do that a few times before leaving her for a longer time.

·         Hopefully she is crate trained because having her familiar crate will be helpful for her.

·         If she won’t bite off hunks, leave her with a Kong™ stuffed with her regular dog food, a piece of vegetable and some canned pumpkin.  Stuff the Kong™ and freeze it overnight for some chewing relief.

And remember, our dogs are uncannily good at picking up on our anxiety.  Moving is stressful for everyone so take good care of yourselves as your dog will respond to your anxiety with anxiety of her own.  Congratulations on your move – let us know how it goes! Thanks for sharing your question.