FAQ: Summer Tips: Is Ice, or Ice Water, Really Bad for My Dog?

We've gotten a few calls regarding the internet "news" about the dangers of feeding your dog ice or cold water.  Here's the scoop ...

http://www.petmd.com/blogs/fullyvetted/2010/july/internet_myths-10213

and

http://www.snopes.com/critters/crusader/icewater.asp

But here is some good advice from the ASPCA:

We all love spending the long, sunny days of summer outdoors with our furry companions, but being overeager in hot weather can spell danger, ASPCA experts warn.
"Most people love to spend the warmer days enjoying the outdoors with friends and family, but it is important to remember that some activities can be dangerous for our pets," said Dr. Camille DeClementi, Senior Toxicologist at the ASPCA's Animal Poison Control Center. "By following a few simple rules, it is easy to keep your pet safe while still having fun in the sun."
Take these simple precautions, provided by ASPCA experts, to help prevent your pet from overheating. And if you suspect your pet is suffering from heat stroke, get help from your veterinarian immediately.
Visit the Vet 
A visit to the veterinarian for a spring or early summer check-up is a must. Make sure your pets get tested for heartworm if they aren't on year-round preventive medication. Do parasites bug your animal companions? Ask your doctor to recommend a safe flea and tick control program.
Made in the Shade
Pets can get dehydrated quickly, so give them plenty of fresh, clean water when it's hot outdoors. Make sure your pets have a shady place to get out of the sun, be careful to not over-exercise them, and keep them indoors when it's extremely hot.
Know the Warning Signs 
Symptoms of  overheating in pets include excessive panting or difficulty breathing, increased heart and respiratory rate, drooling, mild weakness, stupor or even collapse. They can also include seizures, bloody diarrhea and vomit along with an elevated body temperature of over 104 degrees. Animals with flat faces, like Pugs and Persian cats, are more susceptible to heat stroke since they cannot pant as effectively. These pets, along with the elderly, the overweight, and those with heart or lung diseases, should be kept cool in air-conditioned rooms as much as possible.
No Parking!
Never leave your animals alone in a parked vehicle. "On a hot day, a parked car can become a furnace in no time-even with the windows open-which could lead to fatal heat stroke," says Dr. Louise Murray, Vice President of the ASPCA Animal Hospital. Also, leaving pets unattended in cars in extreme weather is illegal in several states.
Make a Safe Splash
Do not leave pets unsupervised around a pool-not all dogs are good swimmers. Introduce your pets to water gradually and make sure they wear flotation devices when on boats. Rinse your dog off after swimming to remove chlorine or salt from his fur, and try to keep your dog from drinking pool water, which contains chlorine and other chemicals that could cause stomach upset.
Screen Test 
"During warmer months, the ASPCA sees an increase in injured animals as a result of High-Rise Syndrome, which occurs when pets-mostly cats-fall out of windows or doors and are seriously or fatally injured," says Dr. Murray. "Pet owners need to know that this is completely preventable if they take simple precautions." Keep all unscreened windows or doors in your home closed and make sure adjustable screens are tightly secured.
Summer Style
Feel free to trim longer hair on your dog, but never shave your dog: The layers of dogs' coats protect them from overheating and sunburn. Brushing cats more often than usual can prevent problems caused by excessive heat. And be sure that any sunscreen or insect repellent product you use on your pets is labeled specifically for use on animals.
Street Smarts 
When the temperature is very high, don't let your dog linger on hot asphalt. Being so close the ground, your pooch's body can heat up quickly, and sensitive paw pads can burn. Keep walks during these times to a minimum.
Avoid Chemicals 
Commonly used flea and tick products, rodenticides (mouse and rat baits), and lawn and garden insecticides can be harmful to cats and dogs if ingested, so keep them out of reach. When walking your dog, steer clear of areas that you suspect have been sprayed with insecticides or other chemicals. Keep citronella candles, oil products and insect coils out of pets' reach as well. Call your veterinarian or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435 if you suspect your animal has ingested a poisonous substance.
Party Animals
Taking Fido to a backyard barbeque or party? Remember that the food and drink offered to guests may be poisonous to pets. Keep alcoholic beverages away from pets, as they can cause intoxication, depression and comas. Similarly, remember that the snacks enjoyed by your human friends should not be a treat for your pet; any change of diet, even for one meal, may give your dog or cat severe digestive ailments. Avoid raisins, grapes, onions, chocolate and products with the sweetener xylitol.
Fireworks Aren't Very Pet-riotic
Please leave pets at home when you head out to Fourth of July celebrations, and never use fireworks around pets. Exposure to lit fireworks can potentially result in severe burns or trauma to curious pets, and even unused fireworks can be hazardous. Many types of fireworks contain potentially toxic substances such as potassium nitrate, copper, chlorates, arsenic and other heavy metals.

 

http://www.aspca.org/pet-care/hot-weather-tips

The weather is turning gorgeous and the Barking Hills Class Schedule for Summer/Fall is up!  Treat your dog, and yourself, to some fun.  Whether your pup needs some manners, you want to compete with your dog, or you're just looking to have some fun, we've got some things for you to try - check it out!

http://www.barkinghills.com/classes/schedule.html

If You Participate in Canine Nosework ...

Interesting article and some things to bare in mind.  Let's be careful out there ...

http://veterinarynews.dvm360.com/dvm/Toxicology/Veterinary-toxicology-alert-Oils-used-in-scent-tra/ArticleStandard/Article/detail/838113?contextCategoryId=378

To Shave, or not to Shave? ... that is the question.

Great article on the merits of shaving a dog to keep them cool in the summer - a must read!

http://albertnorthvetclinic.wordpress.com/2013/05/30/shaving-your-dogs-coat-should-you-or-shouldnt-you/

Hurricane Sandy

Hi all,

We will reopen on Monday, November 5th, for classes.  We will schedule make up classes on a class by class basis.  If you are unable to start/return to class next week, please let us know and we will do our best to accommodate you.

We hope you and your dogs are safe.  Please let us know if there is anything we can do to help.

Ask The Trainer: Car Anxiety

Q: Is there a way to condition a
dog NOT to be scared of riding in
a car?  My dog shivers and panics
every time she knows she's about
to have to ride in the car!  

A:  Many dogs experience car anxiety.  They may
 drool, vomit, shake or even urinate or defecate
in the car.  For most, it starts when they are puppies.
Unfortunately, many puppy’s first couple of car
experiences can be extremely stressful.   The
breeder may transport them to the veterinarian for the first immunization
injection, then the new owner comes along and takes them away from
everything that is familiar (mother, siblings and home) and the new

owner then takes the puppy to the veterinarian where he/she may receive
another immunization.  For many pups, these are their first three car rides.
From the puppy’s point of view … no good can come from getting in a car!
Additionally some puppies, like many children, are prone to motion sickness.
And when the puppy vomits during a car ride lots of owners just don’t put them
in the car more than necessary.  This, unfortunately, can make things worse.

Why bother?

Dogs don’t really need to ride much in the car, do they?  It depends on your lifestyle but many dogs, in order to spend lots of time with their owners, need to ride in the car.  Dogs who travel well may get to go on errands, vacation and weekend trips with their owners.  Since many of us spend a good deal of time in the car, having a dog who travels well allows us to have company and spend time with our dogs all while getting things done, going to a friend’s to watch football or go on vacation.

How to travel?

There are several things to keep in mind when deciding how to travel your dog in a vehicle.  Some states require dogs be restrained in a car but regardless of your state’s laws, remember there are three primary reasons to use car restraints with your dog.

1. Restraints prevent your dog from escaping the vehicle during and directly after a collision.  Dogs who escape vehicles frequently are hit by other cars.
2. Restraints protect your dog from injury caused by the dog hitting the windshield or other parts of the car.
3. Most importantly restraints protect you and your passengers from being hit by your dog who may become a projectile traveling at 40 miles an hour or more in the event of a sudden stop.

Which restraint to use?

There are choices to make in how to restrain your dog.  Some considerations include the type of vehicle, the size of the dog, and the frequency of travel.  All of these should be used in the back seat of a vehicle.

• Crate – probably the safest way, for dog and other vehicle occupants, to restrain a dog is in a crate which is secured into the vehicle.  Small dogs can often be accommodated by “seat belting” the crate into the back seat of the car.  Crates are certainly easy to use as the dog goes in “as is” with no additional equipment.
• Car Barrier – some people prefer these but the barrier must be secured into the cargo section of the SUV, station wagon or other vehicle.   Remember, in the event of a highway collision, the dog will hit the barrier moving at upwards of forty miles an hour.  That is a great deal of force against the barrier so it must be secure.  A well secured car barrier does prevent the occupants of the car from being hurt by the dog.  It is less successful at preventing injury to the animal or preventing the animal from escaping if the hatch pops.  They are, however, easy to use.
• Dog Seat Belt – is the least expensive and most versatile method of restraining a dog because they work in any vehicle.  This is a harness, specifically designed as a vehicle restraint, which clips in to a regular seatbelt receptacle.  The dog can stand up, sit down and lie down easily but is still restrained in the car.  This type of restraint does involve putting a harness on your dog each time you put her in the car.

If your dog is exhibiting severe signs of stress (panting, salivating, vomiting, diarrhea and so on) try switching how you restrain the dog.  Sometimes switching, for example, from a crate to a seat belt may help the dog change her association with car travel.  You can also try covering the crate with a blanket or, conversely, uncovering the crate.

Counter-Conditioning

Dogs who salivate before even getting in the car are anticipating motion sickness or are exhibiting generalized anxiety to getting into a vehicle.  For dogs who are not experiencing motion sickness while traveling but are instead salivating, panting, pacing, barking, having diarrhea and so on, counter-conditioning can help alleviate the anxiety associated with travel.

• Step One:  Start by getting your dog accustom to whatever restraint device your have chosen.  Put the seatbelt on your dog and feed her supper then take it right off,  feed your dog in the travel crate and then take him out or put the car barrier in a doorway and feed your dog behind it.  Do this every meal for three or four days or until your dog appears relaxed and comfortable.  With some dogs this may take several weeks.
• Step Two:  Once your dog is comfortable with the restraint device, feed your dog in the car using the restraint device and immediately take your dog out of the car.  Do this every meal for three or four days or until your dog appears relaxed and comfortable.  With some dogs, this may take a week or more.
• Step Three:  When your dog is comfortable eating in the car using the restraint device -  sit in the front seat and leave your dog in the device after she finishes eating for five minutes.  Do this every meal for a week. 
• Step Four:  Add two minutes of time per meal after your dog finishes eating.  If your dog shows any anxiety reaction go back to five minutes and add one minute a day.  Once you have reached twenty minutes in the restraint device after eating you can proceed to step five.
• Step Five:  Feed your dog in the restraint device and then drive down the block.  Park your car and walk your dog home.  Do this every day for a week.
• Step Six:  Drive your dog somewhere close, but fun.  A neighbor’s yard, local park, or other enjoyable destination.  Walk your dog home.  Repeat daily for a week.
• Step Seven:  Drive your dog further each day but try and include a drive through where you can purchase a “munchkin™”, chicken nugget or other very high value treat.  Many banks and gas stations will also give you a biscuit for your dog.  This is a valuable lesson for your dog – sometimes there’s great food while driving!
• Step Eight:  Gradually lengthen the car rides.
• Step Nine:  Drive to your veterinarian’s office on day when you DO NOT HAVE an appointment.  Take your dog in, give them a treat, and go home.  You may want to call your veterinarian and ask permission to do this.
• Step Ten:  Enjoy having your dog with you in the car!

Other Things that May Help:

• D.A.P. – Dog Appeasing Pheromones work well with some dogs.  You can purchase a plug in for the cigarette lighter or buy a spray.  This is a product used for anxiety in dogs and has been used successfully for car phobic dogs.
• Ginger Snaps – if the dog is actually vomiting in the car, feeding him a couple of ginger snaps twenty minutes before travel may be effective.
• Dramamine – talk to your veterinarian about using medication if your dog, over six months of age, is vomiting in the car.

Remember, if your dog is salivating, shaking, panting and so on before you put them in the car then the issue is anticipatory and not a physical problem.  Counter-conditioning is the answer.  If your dog does not react until they are in the vehicle, and the vehicle is in motion, then you may be dealing with actual motion sickness. 

Motion Sickness:

Most dogs have a window of time prior to getting motion sick.  For some dogs it may be four minutes and others may have twenty minutes or longer.  In addition to the suggestions above, once you have figured out your dog’s window, take trips shorter than your dog’s threshold.  Try and make it someplace fun like the park, to play with a dog they like, or to someplace they can get a special treat!  Every trip you take where your dog doesn’t get sick and has fun is like money in the bank.  Your dog learns that car travel is enjoyable.  And most puppies outgrow motion sickness before they turn a year old. 

Avoiding car travel because your dog gets motion sickness may set up a situation where your dog develops car anxiety.  It is better to take frequent, short, enjoyable trips so your dog has the chance to overcome their sensitivity or anxiety.

With practice any dog can get better about car travel.  And most dogs learn to love going for a ride – if only to be with you!

Thanks for asking and remember:  Train your dog, enjoy your dog.

Ask the Trainer: Coming When Called

Q: We have a 3 year old black lab/pit

bull mix who is very loving. She obeys
most all basic commands like stay, sit,
speak, roll over, etc. The one we have
the most trouble with is "come".  We
want her to come at our call under all 
circumstances.  Suggestions?

 

A:   Ah, coming when called.  That’s a common issue for many owners.  It isn’t any fun to have a dog who won’t come when called.  And it’s dangerous.  Unfortunately, even the most diligent owner can have a dog get off lead in an unsafe environment.  Doors get left unlatched, collars break, clips on leashes jam, things can happen. 

Some Things to Consider

There are several things you can do with any behavior your dog exhibits and to teach a great recall (coming when called) we’re going to teach the behavior, reward the behavior and give a reminder of the new behavior. 

Why Doesn’t My Dog Come?
Believe it or not, sometimes by accident, we teach them the exact opposite behavior – NOT to come when we call them:

·         Dogs don’t come because they don’t have to.  

Sometimes, if a dog is occupied doing something, they don’t come when we call them.  This teaches them that “come” is optional.  They can take a minute to smell something delicious, roll in the grass, or scratch an itch and then, if they want to, they can come to us.

·         Dogs don’t come because they get chastised for coming to us.

After leading you on a merry romp around the yard and neighborhood, your dog finally allows you to grab her collar.  She’s had a wonderful time running around with you – but you aren’t so happy and you tell her “bad girl, didn’t you hear me call you?”.

·         Dogs don’t come because something they don’t want to happen, happens next.

We all are guilty of doing this sometimes.  We call our dog and put them in their crate. Or call them and do their nails, or give them a bath or a pill.  Or we call them indoors from outside and then we leave for the day.  None of these are fun for the dog, so he learns to avoid us when we use that “come” voice.

So Let’s Teach the Behavior!

You will need:            One dog with selective hearing (hears “cookie” just fine but not “come”)

                                         A six foot leash

                                         A long line or clothesline – 50’ to 100’

                                         A martingale collar

                               Lots of high value treats (cheese, chicken, liver and so on)

                                         *Optional:  A bait bag or fanny pack to hold the treats

Step One:                     Put Your Martingale Collar and Leash on the Dog

Step Two:                     Give everyone some high value treats:

                                         Everyone can have different treats – in fact, it may help.

Step Three:                 In a safe location indoors, drop the lead and have someone call the dog.

1.   Call, “Fido, COME” in a pleasant voice – remember to use the dog’s name BEFORE the command so he knows you are talking to him.

2.   Start making noise “pup,pup,pup,pup” in a pleasant tone.  Don’t use the dog’s name again and don’t say “Come” again but continue to make noise until the dog reaches you.

3.   Back up as quickly as your are comfortable doing.  Backing up and making noise make you much more interesting to “chase”.

4.   When the dog “catches” you, feed the dog a yummy treat with both hands.  Make sure both hands are touching your body.

5.   Step on the lead with your foot, give another treat and a chin scratch or belly rub.

Step Four:                    Have the next person call your dog and repeat the same steps.

Step Five:                     Have each person call the dog three times, then stop and repeat at the next session.

Step Six:                       Have the people spread out – one person in the living room, one in the kitchen, one upstairs.

Step Seven:                 Using your long line, practice outdoors. 

Step Eight:                   Practice putting on your six foot lead after your dog comes to you, gets a treat, and a scratch or belly rub. 

So that’s teaching a dog that it is fun, exciting and rewarding to come when called. 

Some Things to Remember:

Keep making noise and backing up until your dog catches you.  Don’t give up!  You have to make yourself the most interesting thing in the room/yard.

Make sure you feed the dog with both hands.

Be sure to have your hands touching your body – otherwise you may teach your dog to come in and stop, just out of your reach.

When using a long line, please wear close toed shoes, long pants and gloves to avoid “rope burns”.  Always carry something to cut the line quickly in case of emergency.

If you need your dog so you can cut their nails, give them a pill, bathe them, put them in their crate – go get them!  Never have something the dog perceives as negative happen after you call them. 

 NEVER HAVE YOUR DOG OFF LEAD IN AN UNSECURED LOCATION.

How Long Will it Take?

Coming when called takes time and practice – especially in stimulating environments.  Different dogs and different breeds will vary in how long it may take to get consistency.  Sighthounds, dogs who hunt with their eyes like Afghans, Whippets, and Greyhounds, will be distracted by visual stimulation.  Scent Hounds, dogs who hunt with their nose like Beagles, and Bloodhounds will have a hard time concentrating with lots of smells.  Terriers, dogs who are bred to chase small furry things, like Jack Russell Terriers and Wheaton Terriers will find small moving objects a great distraction.  Bird Dogs like Setters, Spaniels and Retrievers may find ducks or geese a huge distraction.   Most dogs need many repetitions of the recall being rewarding and very few instances of the recall leading to something they don’t like before the recall is consistent.

If you have a fenced yard and you are in the habit of calling your dog in from the yard, remember to make it a positive experience for your dog most of the time.  If you are going to leave to go to work, for example, call your dog in and give them a treat and send them right back outside.  Repeat this three or four times over the next fifteen to thirty minutes.  When you do call them in and close the door behind them, give them a stuffed Kong™ or chewie and WAIT ten to fifteen minutes before you leave.  You don’t want your dog to associate coming when called with you leaving – or they aren’t going to come very many more times!

Dogs should never be off leash in an unsecured location.  The chance of injury to the dog is too great.  Plus, in most places, it is against the law to have a dog off leash.  Keep your dog on leash at all times.  Your dog can have just as much fun on a long line and you will have the peace of mind that your dog is safe.

In an Emergency:

Leashes do break, so do collars and doors get left open or unlatched so accidents can happen.  If your dog is in danger from being off lead and you have used this training technique:

1. STOP – don’t chase your dog.
2. CALL – use your dog’s name and the word “Come”.
3. RUN – in the opposite direction from your dog.  Yes, you read it right, run away from your dog.  You can’t outrun them so running towards them won’t work.  You can’t catch them.
4. MAKE NOISE –  “PUP,PUP,PUP” or any other noise to get your dog’s attention
5. FALL -  when your dog gets close to catching you,  fall down and lie on your back with your eyes almost closed.
6. GRAB – when your dog is right over you (she will come over to see what happened to you) grab her.

You can only use this method two or three times in your dog’s life – so save it for a real emergency when your dog is in danger and not when it is only inconvenient for you to have a loose dog.  Your dog will figure it out and it will cease to be effective if you use it too many times.

So keep your dog safe.  Practice the recall and remember to only have your dog off leash in a secured location.  Thanks for asking your question and let us know how you do.  Train your dog, enjoy your dog.

(c) Susan D. Greenbaum August 2012