Hurricane Sandy

Hi all,

We will reopen on Monday, November 5th, for classes.  We will schedule make up classes on a class by class basis.  If you are unable to start/return to class next week, please let us know and we will do our best to accommodate you.

We hope you and your dogs are safe.  Please let us know if there is anything we can do to help.

Ask The Trainer: Car Anxiety

Q: Is there a way to condition a
dog NOT to be scared of riding in
a car?  My dog shivers and panics
every time she knows she's about
to have to ride in the car!  

A:  Many dogs experience car anxiety.  They may
 drool, vomit, shake or even urinate or defecate
in the car.  For most, it starts when they are puppies.
Unfortunately, many puppy’s first couple of car
experiences can be extremely stressful.   The
breeder may transport them to the veterinarian for the first immunization
injection, then the new owner comes along and takes them away from
everything that is familiar (mother, siblings and home) and the new

owner then takes the puppy to the veterinarian where he/she may receive
another immunization.  For many pups, these are their first three car rides.
From the puppy’s point of view … no good can come from getting in a car!
Additionally some puppies, like many children, are prone to motion sickness.
And when the puppy vomits during a car ride lots of owners just don’t put them
in the car more than necessary.  This, unfortunately, can make things worse.

Why bother?

Dogs don’t really need to ride much in the car, do they?  It depends on your lifestyle but many dogs, in order to spend lots of time with their owners, need to ride in the car.  Dogs who travel well may get to go on errands, vacation and weekend trips with their owners.  Since many of us spend a good deal of time in the car, having a dog who travels well allows us to have company and spend time with our dogs all while getting things done, going to a friend’s to watch football or go on vacation.

How to travel?

There are several things to keep in mind when deciding how to travel your dog in a vehicle.  Some states require dogs be restrained in a car but regardless of your state’s laws, remember there are three primary reasons to use car restraints with your dog.

1. Restraints prevent your dog from escaping the vehicle during and directly after a collision.  Dogs who escape vehicles frequently are hit by other cars.
2. Restraints protect your dog from injury caused by the dog hitting the windshield or other parts of the car.
3. Most importantly restraints protect you and your passengers from being hit by your dog who may become a projectile traveling at 40 miles an hour or more in the event of a sudden stop.

Which restraint to use?

There are choices to make in how to restrain your dog.  Some considerations include the type of vehicle, the size of the dog, and the frequency of travel.  All of these should be used in the back seat of a vehicle.

• Crate – probably the safest way, for dog and other vehicle occupants, to restrain a dog is in a crate which is secured into the vehicle.  Small dogs can often be accommodated by “seat belting” the crate into the back seat of the car.  Crates are certainly easy to use as the dog goes in “as is” with no additional equipment.
• Car Barrier – some people prefer these but the barrier must be secured into the cargo section of the SUV, station wagon or other vehicle.   Remember, in the event of a highway collision, the dog will hit the barrier moving at upwards of forty miles an hour.  That is a great deal of force against the barrier so it must be secure.  A well secured car barrier does prevent the occupants of the car from being hurt by the dog.  It is less successful at preventing injury to the animal or preventing the animal from escaping if the hatch pops.  They are, however, easy to use.
• Dog Seat Belt – is the least expensive and most versatile method of restraining a dog because they work in any vehicle.  This is a harness, specifically designed as a vehicle restraint, which clips in to a regular seatbelt receptacle.  The dog can stand up, sit down and lie down easily but is still restrained in the car.  This type of restraint does involve putting a harness on your dog each time you put her in the car.

If your dog is exhibiting severe signs of stress (panting, salivating, vomiting, diarrhea and so on) try switching how you restrain the dog.  Sometimes switching, for example, from a crate to a seat belt may help the dog change her association with car travel.  You can also try covering the crate with a blanket or, conversely, uncovering the crate.

Counter-Conditioning

Dogs who salivate before even getting in the car are anticipating motion sickness or are exhibiting generalized anxiety to getting into a vehicle.  For dogs who are not experiencing motion sickness while traveling but are instead salivating, panting, pacing, barking, having diarrhea and so on, counter-conditioning can help alleviate the anxiety associated with travel.

• Step One:  Start by getting your dog accustom to whatever restraint device your have chosen.  Put the seatbelt on your dog and feed her supper then take it right off,  feed your dog in the travel crate and then take him out or put the car barrier in a doorway and feed your dog behind it.  Do this every meal for three or four days or until your dog appears relaxed and comfortable.  With some dogs this may take several weeks.
• Step Two:  Once your dog is comfortable with the restraint device, feed your dog in the car using the restraint device and immediately take your dog out of the car.  Do this every meal for three or four days or until your dog appears relaxed and comfortable.  With some dogs, this may take a week or more.
• Step Three:  When your dog is comfortable eating in the car using the restraint device -  sit in the front seat and leave your dog in the device after she finishes eating for five minutes.  Do this every meal for a week. 
• Step Four:  Add two minutes of time per meal after your dog finishes eating.  If your dog shows any anxiety reaction go back to five minutes and add one minute a day.  Once you have reached twenty minutes in the restraint device after eating you can proceed to step five.
• Step Five:  Feed your dog in the restraint device and then drive down the block.  Park your car and walk your dog home.  Do this every day for a week.
• Step Six:  Drive your dog somewhere close, but fun.  A neighbor’s yard, local park, or other enjoyable destination.  Walk your dog home.  Repeat daily for a week.
• Step Seven:  Drive your dog further each day but try and include a drive through where you can purchase a “munchkin™”, chicken nugget or other very high value treat.  Many banks and gas stations will also give you a biscuit for your dog.  This is a valuable lesson for your dog – sometimes there’s great food while driving!
• Step Eight:  Gradually lengthen the car rides.
• Step Nine:  Drive to your veterinarian’s office on day when you DO NOT HAVE an appointment.  Take your dog in, give them a treat, and go home.  You may want to call your veterinarian and ask permission to do this.
• Step Ten:  Enjoy having your dog with you in the car!

Other Things that May Help:

• D.A.P. – Dog Appeasing Pheromones work well with some dogs.  You can purchase a plug in for the cigarette lighter or buy a spray.  This is a product used for anxiety in dogs and has been used successfully for car phobic dogs.
• Ginger Snaps – if the dog is actually vomiting in the car, feeding him a couple of ginger snaps twenty minutes before travel may be effective.
• Dramamine – talk to your veterinarian about using medication if your dog, over six months of age, is vomiting in the car.

Remember, if your dog is salivating, shaking, panting and so on before you put them in the car then the issue is anticipatory and not a physical problem.  Counter-conditioning is the answer.  If your dog does not react until they are in the vehicle, and the vehicle is in motion, then you may be dealing with actual motion sickness. 

Motion Sickness:

Most dogs have a window of time prior to getting motion sick.  For some dogs it may be four minutes and others may have twenty minutes or longer.  In addition to the suggestions above, once you have figured out your dog’s window, take trips shorter than your dog’s threshold.  Try and make it someplace fun like the park, to play with a dog they like, or to someplace they can get a special treat!  Every trip you take where your dog doesn’t get sick and has fun is like money in the bank.  Your dog learns that car travel is enjoyable.  And most puppies outgrow motion sickness before they turn a year old. 

Avoiding car travel because your dog gets motion sickness may set up a situation where your dog develops car anxiety.  It is better to take frequent, short, enjoyable trips so your dog has the chance to overcome their sensitivity or anxiety.

With practice any dog can get better about car travel.  And most dogs learn to love going for a ride – if only to be with you!

Thanks for asking and remember:  Train your dog, enjoy your dog.

Ask the Trainer: Coming When Called

Q: We have a 3 year old black lab/pit

bull mix who is very loving. She obeys
most all basic commands like stay, sit,
speak, roll over, etc. The one we have
the most trouble with is "come".  We
want her to come at our call under all 
circumstances.  Suggestions?

 

A:   Ah, coming when called.  That’s a common issue for many owners.  It isn’t any fun to have a dog who won’t come when called.  And it’s dangerous.  Unfortunately, even the most diligent owner can have a dog get off lead in an unsafe environment.  Doors get left unlatched, collars break, clips on leashes jam, things can happen. 

Some Things to Consider

There are several things you can do with any behavior your dog exhibits and to teach a great recall (coming when called) we’re going to teach the behavior, reward the behavior and give a reminder of the new behavior. 

Why Doesn’t My Dog Come?
Believe it or not, sometimes by accident, we teach them the exact opposite behavior – NOT to come when we call them:

·         Dogs don’t come because they don’t have to.  

Sometimes, if a dog is occupied doing something, they don’t come when we call them.  This teaches them that “come” is optional.  They can take a minute to smell something delicious, roll in the grass, or scratch an itch and then, if they want to, they can come to us.

·         Dogs don’t come because they get chastised for coming to us.

After leading you on a merry romp around the yard and neighborhood, your dog finally allows you to grab her collar.  She’s had a wonderful time running around with you – but you aren’t so happy and you tell her “bad girl, didn’t you hear me call you?”.

·         Dogs don’t come because something they don’t want to happen, happens next.

We all are guilty of doing this sometimes.  We call our dog and put them in their crate. Or call them and do their nails, or give them a bath or a pill.  Or we call them indoors from outside and then we leave for the day.  None of these are fun for the dog, so he learns to avoid us when we use that “come” voice.

So Let’s Teach the Behavior!

You will need:            One dog with selective hearing (hears “cookie” just fine but not “come”)

                                         A six foot leash

                                         A long line or clothesline – 50’ to 100’

                                         A martingale collar

                               Lots of high value treats (cheese, chicken, liver and so on)

                                         *Optional:  A bait bag or fanny pack to hold the treats

Step One:                     Put Your Martingale Collar and Leash on the Dog

Step Two:                     Give everyone some high value treats:

                                         Everyone can have different treats – in fact, it may help.

Step Three:                 In a safe location indoors, drop the lead and have someone call the dog.

1.   Call, “Fido, COME” in a pleasant voice – remember to use the dog’s name BEFORE the command so he knows you are talking to him.

2.   Start making noise “pup,pup,pup,pup” in a pleasant tone.  Don’t use the dog’s name again and don’t say “Come” again but continue to make noise until the dog reaches you.

3.   Back up as quickly as your are comfortable doing.  Backing up and making noise make you much more interesting to “chase”.

4.   When the dog “catches” you, feed the dog a yummy treat with both hands.  Make sure both hands are touching your body.

5.   Step on the lead with your foot, give another treat and a chin scratch or belly rub.

Step Four:                    Have the next person call your dog and repeat the same steps.

Step Five:                     Have each person call the dog three times, then stop and repeat at the next session.

Step Six:                       Have the people spread out – one person in the living room, one in the kitchen, one upstairs.

Step Seven:                 Using your long line, practice outdoors. 

Step Eight:                   Practice putting on your six foot lead after your dog comes to you, gets a treat, and a scratch or belly rub. 

So that’s teaching a dog that it is fun, exciting and rewarding to come when called. 

Some Things to Remember:

Keep making noise and backing up until your dog catches you.  Don’t give up!  You have to make yourself the most interesting thing in the room/yard.

Make sure you feed the dog with both hands.

Be sure to have your hands touching your body – otherwise you may teach your dog to come in and stop, just out of your reach.

When using a long line, please wear close toed shoes, long pants and gloves to avoid “rope burns”.  Always carry something to cut the line quickly in case of emergency.

If you need your dog so you can cut their nails, give them a pill, bathe them, put them in their crate – go get them!  Never have something the dog perceives as negative happen after you call them. 

 NEVER HAVE YOUR DOG OFF LEAD IN AN UNSECURED LOCATION.

How Long Will it Take?

Coming when called takes time and practice – especially in stimulating environments.  Different dogs and different breeds will vary in how long it may take to get consistency.  Sighthounds, dogs who hunt with their eyes like Afghans, Whippets, and Greyhounds, will be distracted by visual stimulation.  Scent Hounds, dogs who hunt with their nose like Beagles, and Bloodhounds will have a hard time concentrating with lots of smells.  Terriers, dogs who are bred to chase small furry things, like Jack Russell Terriers and Wheaton Terriers will find small moving objects a great distraction.  Bird Dogs like Setters, Spaniels and Retrievers may find ducks or geese a huge distraction.   Most dogs need many repetitions of the recall being rewarding and very few instances of the recall leading to something they don’t like before the recall is consistent.

If you have a fenced yard and you are in the habit of calling your dog in from the yard, remember to make it a positive experience for your dog most of the time.  If you are going to leave to go to work, for example, call your dog in and give them a treat and send them right back outside.  Repeat this three or four times over the next fifteen to thirty minutes.  When you do call them in and close the door behind them, give them a stuffed Kong™ or chewie and WAIT ten to fifteen minutes before you leave.  You don’t want your dog to associate coming when called with you leaving – or they aren’t going to come very many more times!

Dogs should never be off leash in an unsecured location.  The chance of injury to the dog is too great.  Plus, in most places, it is against the law to have a dog off leash.  Keep your dog on leash at all times.  Your dog can have just as much fun on a long line and you will have the peace of mind that your dog is safe.

In an Emergency:

Leashes do break, so do collars and doors get left open or unlatched so accidents can happen.  If your dog is in danger from being off lead and you have used this training technique:

1. STOP – don’t chase your dog.
2. CALL – use your dog’s name and the word “Come”.
3. RUN – in the opposite direction from your dog.  Yes, you read it right, run away from your dog.  You can’t outrun them so running towards them won’t work.  You can’t catch them.
4. MAKE NOISE –  “PUP,PUP,PUP” or any other noise to get your dog’s attention
5. FALL -  when your dog gets close to catching you,  fall down and lie on your back with your eyes almost closed.
6. GRAB – when your dog is right over you (she will come over to see what happened to you) grab her.

You can only use this method two or three times in your dog’s life – so save it for a real emergency when your dog is in danger and not when it is only inconvenient for you to have a loose dog.  Your dog will figure it out and it will cease to be effective if you use it too many times.

So keep your dog safe.  Practice the recall and remember to only have your dog off leash in a secured location.  Thanks for asking your question and let us know how you do.  Train your dog, enjoy your dog.

(c) Susan D. Greenbaum August 2012

Ask the Trainer:  Dogs Who Pull on Leash

Q: Gracie pulls constantly on her leash, we’ve tried choke collars, harness, and the regular collar, she pulls with all of them.  I’ve tried to stop moving and make her sit when she’s pulling until she’s calmed down, still doesn’t work.  Gracie is an 80 lbs (very strong) American Bulldog, any suggestions?

Q: Whenever I walk my German Short Haired Pointer Homer, he pulls! I cannot ever walk him without the pulling. He has control, and I have little or none.  Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

A:   This might be the most common reason people seek training advice, a dog who pulls them down the street!  You’re not alone.  Pulling makes walking your dog unpleasant at best and, on an icy sidewalk, dangerous. 

Let’s Talk about Equipment:

There are many types of collars and harnesses available but they all share one thing in common.  They won’t teach your dog not to pull!  While almost all of these have uses, depending on the dog and handler, none of them will work without you training your dog.  Think of equipment as power steering for your car.  Power steering makes driving your two ton vehicle much easier but it doesn’t steer your car.  That part is still up to you.  While every dog and handler is different these are some of the more common pieces of training equipment and the pluses and minuses of using them.  Please check with your veterinarian before using any collar or harness.

·         Buckle or Clip Collar

o    This is the standard collar many dogs wear. 

+           Comes in lots of colors and patterns 

  -            In an emergency it can easily slip over your dog’s head resulting in a loose dog

·         Martingale Collar

o    This collar looks like two thirds of a snow man, it has two loops-one goes over the dog’s head and the other attaches to the leash.  The second loop can be made of fabric or chain

+           Properly fitted, the collar can neither slip off or tighten down to choke the dog

  -            Some dogs can chew the second loop so leaving the collar attached to the leash is the best practice.  When the leash goes on, so does the collar.

·         Slip or Choke Collar

o    This collar, made out of fabric, leather or chain, has two rings. 

 +           The dog, in an emergency, cannot slip out of the collar

  -            Many people put this collar on “upside down” which does not allow the collar to open fully.  It isn’t an appropriate collar for dogs who lean on the collar as it can, over time, cause tracheal damage.  It may break the coat of a dog with long hair.

·         Pinch or Prong Collar

o    This collar, made out of steel, has removable links which can be subtracted or added to get a proper fit.

 +           Properly fitted, this collar can neither slip off or tighten down to choke the dog.  It should be worn with a “safety” collar, a martingale for example, so if the links separate there will still be a collar on the dog.

 -            Collars with large links are difficult to fit properly.  Public perception of these collars can be negative.  These collars should be fitted by someone experienced with the collar.

·         Standard Harness

o    This harness may be fabric, leather, webbing or mesh.  The leash clips to the back of the dog’s shoulders.

 +           Comes in many colors and patterns

 -            Harnesses are easy for dogs to get out of if the dog gets frightened.  Back clip harnesses often encourage dogs to “lean in” causing pulling.

·         Front Clip Harness

o    This harness is made out of fabric and has a place under the dog’s chin to clip the leash

  +           Comes in many colors and patterns.  Can be used effectively by children.  This harness, like all harnesses needs to be used with a “safety collar” like a martingale.

  -            Some harnesses have a loop on the front and some dogs chew on that loop.  If the dog chews another brand without the loop should be used.

·         Head Halter

o    This goes around the dog’s muzzle

  +           Comes in many colors and patterns

  -            Many dogs dislike the feel of something on their face and will need to be slowly acclimated to wearing a head halter.   If the dog continues to pull against the head halter, some dogs will rub fur off of the muzzle

Which should I choose?

As each dog and each handler is an individual, no one thing will work for everyone.  If your dog is “reactive”, that is she barks and lunges at other dogs or people, then you may want to avoid using a head halter or prong collar.  Reactive dogs who wear head halters are prevented from seeing what they wish to see as the action of the head halter pulls the dog’s head towards the handler.  Not being able to see what arouses the dog may cause much more arousal.  Think if a scary looking person walked through the door and someone covered your eyes – most of us would not be very happy with that at all, we would want to be able to see the person.   Your dog feels the same way.  Reactive dogs who wear prong collars, especially poorly fitted collars, may lunge towards the person or dog and receive a correction from the collar.  Since prong collars mimic the correction an adult dog gives a puppy, a dog who lunges towards another dog or person may perceive that correction as coming from the person or dog it is lunging towards.  “That dog bit me!” is what she may be thinking.  This can make matters worse.

Most dogs and handlers do well with a martingale style collar.  If you cannot stand still with your dog on a martingale collar, you may need the “power steering” of a front clip harness or prong collar to prevent your dog from pulling you over.  Regardless, the technique for loose lead walking is the same.

Some Things to Consider

There are several things you can do with any behavior your dog exhibits and for pulling we’re going to limit the behavior, replace the behavior and reward the new behavior.  This process takes time.  Remember how long your dog has been pulling!  It’s a bad habit and habits take time to change.  Try this:  Tomorrow morning pick up your toothbrush with the opposite hand.  Keep a log and see how long it takes you to remember to do this rather than switch hands once you’ve made the mistake!  Habits take time and practice to change.  To go from a pulling dog to one who doesn’t pull will take time, practice and patience. 

Why do Dogs Pull?
Many dogs pull.  And most do for the following reasons:

·         Dogs pull because it gets them where they want to go … faster.  

So long as the dog gets what he wants, to go in the direction he pulls, he will continue to pull.  Why wouldn’t he?  He’s getting exactly what he wants.

·         Dogs pull because we pull back.

When your dog pulls, you lean back on your heels and tighten your grip which upsets your dog’s center of balance.  So he pushes forward.  Which upsets your center of balance so you lean back.  Which upsets his center of balance.  And so on.  Pretty soon, your dog’s chest is inches off the ground and you look like you are water skiing.  The leash is tight and everyone is pulling.

·         Dogs pull because they can’t figure out how long the leash is.

Pretend you tied your dog to a tree (I know you wouldn’t really do that) on a ten foot piece of rope.  Your dog might run to the end of the rope a few times and then she’d figure it out and stop before she hit the end.  Now pretend you put her out the next day on a twenty foot piece of rope – she’d do the same thing.  But if you change the length of the rope every day she would have no choice but to hit the end in order to figure out how long the rope is today.   So now, picture your dog walking on a four foot lead.  How long is the leash?  Four feet, right?  Well, what if your arm is extended towards your dog?  What if your arm is behind you?  What if your arm is over your head?  See the problem?  Sometimes your leash is four feet long, sometimes six feet and sometimes three feet.

So Let’s Walk a Dog!

You will need: 

• One pulling dog 
• A four foot leash 
• A martingale collarLots of high value treats (cheese, chicken, liver and so on)
•  *Optional:  A bait bag or fanny pack to hold the treats

Step One:                      

 Put Your Martingale Collar and Leash on the Dog 
                               Don’t forget to put your treats in a pocket or bait bag on your left side

Step Two:                    

 Put the Loop of the Leash over your Right Hand and put your Right Thumb in your Pocket

                              This will keep you from moving your hand and changing the length of your leash

If your dog is very tall, you may need to make the leash shorter by folding it over your right thumb and grabbing both sides with your hand.  Don’t forget to put your hand in your pocket!

The leash will be draped across your legs.  When your dog is standing next to your left leg the clip on the leash should be facing the ground with no tension at all.

Step Three: Remember the Three Rules of Walking:

1.       Don’t Go in the Direction the Dog Pulls

2.       Don’t Pull Back

3.       Don’t Change the Length of the Leash

Step Four: 

Say “Let’s Go” and Start Walking   

• Walk forward briskly (it’s easier for your dog) 
• As soon as you feel any tension on the lead: 
• STOP 
• Turn to your right, go completely around (180%), and start walking back the way you came. 
• When your leash goes loose, tell your dog “Yes!” in an enthusiastic voice and feed your dog a  yummy treat with your left hand touching your pants seam.

Really, that’s it.  If your dog puts tension on the lead pulling to the left – STOP, Turn to your right one quarter turn (90%) and walk.  If your dog puts tension on the lead by lagging behind, move forward faster.  Whichever way your dog puts tension on the lead, STOP and go the opposite way. 

Some Things to Remember: 

• Don’t touch the leash with your left hand – it’s for feeding your dog only.  Otherwise, when you use your left hand on the leash, you will make the leash shorter.
•  Say “YES” when your dog keeps all tension off the lead, feed a great treat with your left hand touching your left leg. 
• Keep the food in your pocket or bait bag until after you say “YES”.  Your dog will wait for you to fish out the treat! 
• Keep moving – don’t stop to give the treat or your dog will equate stopping with the treat rather than equating the treat with a loose leash. 
•  If you have a very small dog, you may want to use cream cheese or peanut butter on a spoon or chop stick so you don’t have to bend over.  Remember to keep the spoon/stick up in the air, by your shoulder, until after you say “YES”. 
• If you have more than one dog, please work each dog separately before you try and work them together.
• If your dog shows aggression towards other dogs or people please consult with a qualified trainer.

Step Four:                                       

Step Five: Repeat, Repeat, Repeat.

Try to remember your dog has been pulling for awhile and it will take time to establish a new habit.  Your dog cannot learn this if sometimes you let your dog pull.  The rule needs to be “no tension on the leash – ever”.  That means no tension when your dog is going out to urinate or defecate, when she sees a squirrel, when she sees another dog or someone she knows.  No pulling even when on a long line.

Step Six:                                           

How Long Will it Take?

Changing a habit takes time and, depending on how long your dog has been “practicing” the pulling behavior, it may take quite a few repetitions.  You may find your dog does very well on your own street in just a few days but it may take longer in new places.    Or maybe your dog does great almost all the time but sometimes seems to lose his mind when he sees another dog – all of this is normal.  If you are 100% consistent, and practice every day, you will have much more control in one to three weeks; which isn’t too bad.  Remember, your dog has been pulling a lot longer than that!

A dog who is a pleasure to walk is worth the effort.  Your dog will go more places with you, and you will walk more with your dog – it’s good for both of you!  Thanks for asking your question and let us know how you do.  Train your dog, enjoy your dog.

(c) Copyright 2012 Susan D. Greenbaum